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Tech Tips

 

 

Why should the inside of the crack sealer tank be cleaned?

 

sidetankbuildup.jpgThe buildup of sealant and coked material inside the sealant tank costs you money. Every ½” of buildup adds a minimum of an additional 20 minutes of time it takes to transfer heat from the outside oil jacket, through the buildup and into the sealant. The thicker the buildup, the more time it takes to melt sealant, costing you more in fuel and lost productivity. Solid chunks of coked material have been known to delaminate from the sidewalls and fall into the tank thereby inhibiting the flow of sealant.

 

Every crack sealing melter (regardless of manufacturer) that heats asphalt modified sealant will experience a buildup of sealant on the sides of the tank as well as the ceiling of the tank. It is a natural part of the heating and cooling process.

 

Unlike the side walls, the ceiling will develop not only a thick layer of sealant but the formation of asphalt stalactites. These pointed solid drips will eventually, when long enough and brittle, break off and fall into the sealant tank. At that point they are “stone hard” shards that can be sucked into the sealant pump. Once inside the pump the shards and can at worst, jam and stop a pump, and at the very least, wear and damage the pump. If the pieces break off small enough to go through the pump’s screens and gears they can travel to the tip of the wand and either clog the tip or redirect the sealant in an unanticipated direction.

 

We highly recommend that during the annual changing of heat transfer oil you take the time to thoroughly remove the material buildup on the side walls and ceiling inside the sealant tank. One of the many advantages a Cimline melter has is the large tank lid that allows full access to the inside of the tank.